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Thread: Aqua Digitals Tank build

  1. #21
    Join Date
    19.02.2009
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    So good ole level control etc etc

    Lets start with the basics.

    ATO.

    There are different ways of doing this

    Direct from the RO unit (my choice)
    From storage container (most popular)
    From one of the above controlled by a salinity probe instead of level sensor (advance topic - later)

    So which ever you choose of the first two the only thing that changes in the set up is what you plug into the assigned power bar socket, whether it be a water solenoid of water pump. In my case water solenoid.

    So first thing we must do is set a float or optical level sensor up in the sump to the desired (controlled) level point.

    Here is mine.



    Set up the assembly and loose fit to the sump so it can be adjusted, now go to the profilux front screen and go to level - diagnostic - level 1, adjust the sensor until it just turns off, you now have your level set at where you wish the water to always be maintained at.

    So back to the software.

    Go to the level control screen



    By now you should have plugged in your sensor to the back of the profilux and not by mistake plugged it into the temperature port instead :celeb1:

    Double click on Level 1 in the settings tab at the top and up pops -



    In this box you can set all sorts of treats, the first important thing to set is the function, in this case ATO, the next most important is Max on time, this is your safety net, lets say heavens forbid you forgot to clean your ATO sensor and it stuck on, you are in Cuba and downing a lovely cool local brew while your ATO goes AWOL and floods the Granny apartment below! To avoid such minor issues here you set the maximum time you wish the sensor to be in an active state. So in my case 5 minutes is, well probably to long and needs to adjust that down to 30 seconds, thats a good target. So now you have fail safe ATO

    next in the same screen you need to set up the reaction time, no this is not the time you have to get back from Cuba to sort out the mess in the apartment below, but the amount of time the sensor is active before the controlled socket is switched, this is ideal for tanks with turbulance or other things that can make the sensor switch on and off periodically. I have mine set to 5 secs, which is just right.

    So thats the ATO sensor set up, what about the socket?

    You have now chosen a socket to control your pump or solenoid. Just as before go to socket function and click edit the chosen socket. Set this to water 1.

    Waheyy, you now have fail safe fully set up ATO


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  2. #22
    Join Date
    19.02.2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrick vachon View Post
    really a beautiful set up!! bravo!

    a small question, how you made to put an screnshot of profilux on the forum??
    Click on image then hold down ALt and press print screen nthen copy this into something like Power point and save as picture


    GHL ProfiLux Canada/USA Distribution and support

  3. #23
    Join Date
    19.02.2009
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    So for the topic tonight - water alarms.

    You can have all manner of alarms -

    Maximum on time alarm (this is described in ATO set up)
    Low water level alarm
    High water level alarm
    Leakage alarm

    Depending on the amount of sensors you have depends on how many alarm states you can create. I have main tank ovefill alarm and max on time ATO alarm and here i will show you how to create an alarm and shut off for the main pump if the drain got blocked.

    As you can see from the photo I have attached a float level sensor to the Euro brace inside the weir box, the sensor will then be triggered if the water level rises too high, in doing so setting off an alarm and turning off the main pump. You can set the same thing up for low water in your sump by putting the sensor there instead, mounted differently of course.



    So how to program?

    First connect the sensor to a level sensor port.

    Now go to level control in the software and select the sensor for editing. Set the sensor to leakage detection and set your max on times etc as you choose.



    Now go to socket function outlet and choose what socket you want the return pump plugged into then edit this socket as follows



    Here you will see I am using sensor 3 so have programmed as water 3.

    If using an optical sensor, when setting up the socket function remember to "invert" the socket function.

    Thats all for tonight folks


    GHL ProfiLux Canada/USA Distribution and support

  4. #24
    Join Date
    19.02.2009
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    MANOTICK
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    So long time coming an update

    Tank now been running a month, live for 3 weeks.

    parameters

    NO2 =0
    NO3 = .01 to.02 depending on how tired my eyes are
    PO4 = 0
    Ca = 440
    DKH = 8
    Mg = 1390
    Salinity 34PPT
    temp = 28
    Redox mV = 423mV
    pH = 8.01

    The tank is doing really well i have not had to scrape the glass once for algea, bio bloom white film yes, but not algea. i am now running ProdiBio for 5 days and the corals are loving it. I would say there is no difference as yet I can report from FM to prodi both are equally good at nutrient reduction, I am sort of caught in the middle which way to go, but as i do not have room for a reactor I am sticking with prodi for 3 months at least and then will decide. there is also room to think about mixing and matching products but my tank is way to young to start any fancy reviews like that.

    Ok back to the tank.

    I got some awesome corals from ottawa inverts, I am lucky to share the same town as pat so have easy access to his huge coral racks. Pat you need more space !!!

    Pictures - As you will see below much to many peoples delight the Ai lamp hangers are finished.





    I hope this now meets with everyones approval

    Here are some tank shots, I apologise now for the quality I am no good at photography at all, but i think you get a good idea how things are coming along.











    I will continue with the profiLux tutorial/review later this week.
    Last edited by aqua_digital; 31.03.2010 at 03:18.


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  5. #25
    Join Date
    19.02.2009
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    MANOTICK
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    Little update for you

    All params are at ultra low nutrient, in hindsight this is not always a wonderful thing as you will see I have a suspected Bio Bloom, the upside is the corals are thriving, and my center piece powder blue acro colony is settling in well.

    I say bio bloom, it has not been proved, but other than calcium precipitation there is little else the slight cloudy look could be, so its time to sit back enjoy and give it 14 days and then see.

    Interestingly my redox is a whopping 474mV !! A sign of the low nutrients.







    The profiLux of course is rock solid, it actually has become a huge value having the full set up so I can do much better live support and test things out myself before providing support.

    More later this week.


    GHL ProfiLux Canada/USA Distribution and support

  6. #26
    Join Date
    19.02.2009
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    MANOTICK
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    So the next part of the "how to guide" is to cover initial connectivity via USB and or USB to RS232 adapter.

    So first off -

    Always install first the matching and newest driver before you connect the USB with the PC! I will explain how to do this below

    If you use the PLM-USB card you will find our newest driver at our download-page

    http://www.aquariumcomputer.com/Syst.../download.html

    Important: there are 2 different drivers available - one for Prolific chipset, the other for FTDI chipset.

    If you are not sure which chipset (the name is printed on the chip of the USB-card) you can install both drivers, this is not a problem.

    Third party adapters (RS232 to USB) - The only time you should use one of these is for firmware updates using the fujitsu tool. I do advise everyone with a Plus II to get PLM-USB as adapters are our biggest nightmare. The biggest issues faced is by the use of these adapters so i will cover as many hints as possible regarding this. Of course ProfiLux will always get the blame when it does not work even though they did not make it So this is very important for everyone to read

    If you do decide to use a third-party USB-RS232-converter then you have to use the shipped driver, always look for an updated driver on the manufacturers website. If the adapter does not come with a driver or a brand name, my advise is do not buy it, but if you do have one like this and can not find the driver, use the driver for PLM-USB, however we do not guarrantee this will work

    So you have installed the driver(s), if you now connect the profilux to the PC with power applied windows should say "new hardware found" and after a few seconds display what COM port it is using. if not then the USB-port will be displayed in the windows device manager under "Ports (COM and LPT)". There you can also see the assigned port number (e.g. "COM 7").

    In ProfiLuxControl this port number has to be adjusted under connection settings. Connection settings can be located by clicking on the 3 dots ... next to the connect button.

    open the connection window for RS232/USB and this box will be displayed



    The baudrate (transmission speed) of ProfiLux and ProfiLuxControl must be matching. Standard is 9600 for both, usually you need not to change them.

    In the COM window edit this to match the COM number that you noted earlier.

    Make sure RS232/USB is ticked

    Press save

    in the list of connection tick the connection for RS232/USB

    Exit

    You should now be able to connect

    Notes - Even if you are using a USB-RS232-converter you must use our cable ProfiLux-SER between converter and ProfiLux!

    If the connection fails although then:

    The used USB-RS232-converter is not working correctly (hardware and/or driver are not according to the standards). In this case try using the profiLic driver I personally have found this to work in my case, also use this driver if you adapter was not supplied with a driver CD.

    I hope this gives a good insight


    GHL ProfiLux Canada/USA Distribution and support

  7. #27
    Join Date
    19.02.2009
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    MANOTICK
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    Little update, not all corals i got this weekend can be seen they are tough cookies to take pics of



    The clip is holding Fauna marin wakame, boy does this stuff expand in the water, so far the tang has ignored it as have all other fish I will remove it tonight and try a tiny piece tomorrow.









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  8. #28
    Join Date
    07.06.2009
    Posts
    738

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    I had to wait 2 -3 weeks before my picasso wanted to eat nori, he just ate flakes in stead , now he's eating everything

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