Meanwell ELN-60-48D LED Driver

[nallaakk]

From my understanding, you were asking if you could combine 6 ELN-48-60D for white and same for the Royal blue. Anyways, I think 13 LEDs per driver would be a little bit on max side. I know they are rated little bit higher than 48Volt and go up to 52Volt but still they will get very warm since you be pushing the limits with your powerful LEDs. I would say reduce the number of LEDs to 12 per ELN-48-60D LED driver.

[Luisagos]

LEDs are current devices.

At 48 v with 13 LEDS, your at 3.69 v per LED.

Running at 10v as the dimming voltages, your running at 1.25a.
The specs for the LED are 3.6v at 1000ma.

LEDs are the ones running on the high side, not the drivers.

You need set current at 10v to 1a, just open the driver casing and turn the current pot till you get 1000ma at 10v dimming.

[nallaakk]

LEDs are current devices.

At 48 v with 13 LEDS, your at 3.69 v per LED.

Running at 10v as the dimming voltages, your running at 1.25a.
The specs for the LED are 3.6v at 1000ma.

LEDs are the ones running on the high side, not the drivers.

You need set current at 10v to 1a, just open the driver casing and turn the current pot till you get 1000ma at 10v dimming.

I am speaking from experience while using these ELN-48-60D LED drivers with XR-E LEDs. I know they are set at max which is around 1.2Amp and you can tone these drivers and bring down to just under 1000mA. By doing this you could increase the number of LEDs but they do create extra burden on the driver itself hence causing the driver to warm up much more than when running them with 12 LEDs, please remember I am not talking about the LEDs but the LED driver itself.

[Luisagos]

I am speaking from experience while using these ELN-48-60D LED drivers with XR-E LEDs. I know they are set at max which is around 1.2Amp and you can tone these drivers and bring down to just under 1000mA. By doing this you could increase the number of LEDs but they do create extra burden on the driver itself hence causing the driver to warm up much more than when running them with 12 LEDs, please remember I am not talking about the LEDs but the LED driver itself.

I understood you well. Just because something runs warmer not nessary means is out of spec.

These drivers are design to put out 48v at 1.25ma. By lowering the current to 1 amp, your running below the max recommanded settings, which is a good thing, for the driver and the LEDs.

What dicates the max LED count on one string is what the LED voltage is design to work at, in this case its 3.6v.

This driver puts out 48v, if you 48/13 = 3.69 v, you well within the LED specs.

Also ohmns laws says, series circuits, the amount of current is the same through any component in the circuit.

[dipan]

LEDs are current devices.

At 48 v with 13 LEDS, your at 3.69 v per LED.

Running at 10v as the dimming voltages, your running at 1.25a.
The specs for the LED are 3.6v at 1000ma.

LEDs are the ones running on the high side, not the drivers.

You need set current at 10v to 1a, just open the driver casing and turn the current pot till you get 1000ma at 10v dimming.

Luis, Cree's Data Sheet for the XR-E puts forward voltage at 3.7V @ 1000mA. Where do you get the 3.6V number from?

On another note, if I were to build an LED array, I would seriously consider using the newer Cree XP-G. At 1000mA this LED can pruduce 105 lumens per watt and is brighter and more efficient than the XR-E. It is also rated at a forward voltage of 3.3V @ 1000mA. So, by the specs at least, you could run 14 in series off a single Meanwell ELN-60-48-D at 1000mA (46.2V) ...

[g8gxp]

so assuming i have 9 of these drivers that i need to power, how many LFB-AP's would i need? If i used the EVG-AP2F instead how many of these would I need?

Thanks,

[Monty]

Hi Folks,
I’m on the same path now. I’m about to build a light setup with 144 HB LED driven with 12 MW ELN-60-48D Drivers (12 LEDs each). My plan for now is to put 5 of them with Cool Whit’s on one dimming channel, 5 with Royal Blue on a second channel and two, one with Cool White and one with Royal Blue, on a third channel. The third channel should also be a Moonlight in nighttime. The issue is that you cannot put more than 3 ELN drivers on one channel. I hope to find a solution this weekend. My cousin is an electronic technician and we will sit down to put something together to amplify the dimming signal. We already talked on the phone about my problem, and he told me that it will be pretty simple to put something together that will support more than just 3 drivers by using a small additional stabilized power source and having an stabilized output to ensure not to overdrive the dimming channel to the ELN driver and also not having a fluctuation in light intensity. GHL has already a similar device, the PropellerControl, but it’s not fitting our needs. The current is ok but the voltage is 0-12V and then there is a rapid jump from 0-3V to fit the needs of fans in the starting period. Got this info from Martin GHL.
So as soon as I get all working I will post my results and the circuit solution if you would like to try it!!

Some more details about my setup:
• 950L (250g) tank 150x80x80 cm (59x31x31 inch), SPS mainly, some fish
• PL3 controller - 3 channels lighting, 3 channels Tunze pumps
• 144 Cree XP-G LEDs - 72 Cool White, 72 Royal Blue, no optics
• 12 ELN-60-48D drivers
• I’ll use an EVG-AP-2F for the two main channels to cutoff the drivers from the power after lighting period.
• I’ll use an EVG-AP-1F for the one channel which should also be used as Moonlight, to cutoff the driver from the power after lighting period.
• 3 contactors, one on each 220V outlet of the EVG-AP’s to protect the EVG-AP relays. There will be definitely a to high switching current with 5 drivers on the relay, that why the contactors.
• 3 “amplifiers” (developed by my cousin and me)(hopefully!) on each dimming channel coming out of the EVG-AP’s

Thanks
Monty

[Monty]

Hi g8gxp,
If you don’t want to bother with “amplifying” the dimming channel, you have to count this way: One channel is 10mA each, one driver sucks 3,3mA. 3 drivers have 9.9mA so you can put just 3 drivers on one channel. By 9 drivers you need 3 channels. You can hookup more than just 3 drivers on one LFB-AP, but you are limited to the 10mA on the channel. If I assume that you have 3 dimming channels free on your PL than you need 3 LFB-AP and at least one YL2. If you like the option, which is that the drivers would be cut off from the power source when not in use, you need one EVG-AP-2F end one EVG-AP-1F and no YL2, because the EVG-AP-2F has already the channel split inbuilt, but if you want to put the EVG-AP-1F or the third LFB-AP on an L plug of the PL where already one channel is used, then you need one more YL2.

If I’m not right, just give me a slap.
Thanks
Monty

[dipan]

Hi Folks,
I’m on the same path now. I’m about to build a light setup with 144 HB LED driven with 12 MW ELN-60-48D Drivers (12 LEDs each). My plan for now is to put 5 of them with Cool Whit’s on one dimming channel, 5 with Royal Blue on a second channel and two, one with Cool White and one with Royal Blue, on a third channel. The third channel should also be a Moonlight in nighttime. The issue is that you cannot put more than 3 ELN drivers on one channel. I hope to find a solution this weekend. My cousin is an electronic technician and we will sit down to put something together to amplify the dimming signal. We already talked on the phone about my problem, and he told me that it will be pretty simple to put something together that will support more than just 3 drivers by using a small additional stabilized power source and having an stabilized output to ensure not to overdrive the dimming channel to the ELN driver and also not having a fluctuation in light intensity. GHL has already a similar device, the PropellerControl, but it’s not fitting our needs. The current is ok but the voltage is 0-12V and then there is a rapid jump from 0-3V to fit the needs of fans in the starting period. Got this info from Martin GHL.
So as soon as I get all working I will post my results and the circuit solution if you would like to try it!!

Some more details about my setup:
• 950L (250g) tank 150x80x80 cm (59x31x31 inch), SPS mainly, some fish
• PL3 controller - 3 channels lighting, 3 channels Tunze pumps
• 144 Cree XP-G LEDs - 72 Cool White, 72 Royal Blue, no optics
• 12 ELN-60-48D drivers
• I’ll use an EVG-AP-2F for the two main channels to cutoff the drivers from the power after lighting period.
• I’ll use an EVG-AP-1F for the one channel which should also be used as Moonlight, to cutoff the driver from the power after lighting period.
• 3 contactors, one on each 220V outlet of the EVG-AP’s to protect the EVG-AP relays. There will be definitely a to high switching current with 5 drivers on the relay, that why the contactors.
• 3 “amplifiers” (developed by my cousin and me)(hopefully!) on each dimming channel coming out of the EVG-AP’s

Thanks
Monty

Hi g8gxp,
If you don’t want to bother with “amplifying” the dimming channel, you have to count this way: One channel is 10mA each, one driver sucks 3,3mA. 3 drivers have 9.9mA so you can put just 3 drivers on one channel. By 9 drivers you need 3 channels. You can hookup more than just 3 drivers on one LFB-AP, but you are limited to the 10mA on the channel. If I assume that you have 3 dimming channels free on your PL than you need 3 LFB-AP and at least one YL2. If you like the option, which is that the drivers would be cut off from the power source when not in use, you need one EVG-AP-2F end one EVG-AP-1F and no YL2, because the EVG-AP-2F has already the channel split inbuilt, but if you want to put the EVG-AP-1F or the third LFB-AP on an L plug of the PL where already one channel is used, then you need one more YL2.

If I’m not right, just give me a slap.
Thanks
Monty

I just want to chime in and say that I am also building a large LED array and need support for more dimming power, one way or another, or I will have to use an large number of EVG-AP-2F's, probably with an expansion box. I'll be using about 32 Meanwell drivers between main and frag tanks. An expansion box will fit 5 EVG-AP-2F's by my figuring, capable of driving 30 Meanwell's on 10 channels. The other two I can probably run via another EVG-AP-2F in the PIIIex. Will the P3 support this many of these cards?

Monty, in order to simplify my setup, I'd be extremely interested in anything you come up with. I can solder and stuff, but have no good practical electrical experience. Thanks for your post!

[dipan]

Anyone? Team Profilux?