View Full Version : how to set Mitras 6100 HV
Dear all,
I changed my 150W MH Light with 4x24W T5 tubes to Mitras 6100HV
Now I see problems with my SPS coral, all stop grow, color are not amazing.
I use my Mitras 2 month
Maybe whos can tell me how should be settings for this lamp for tank
80cmx65cm
Water lvl 61 cm
Lamp 20 cm on water lvl
HELP !
Hi kwiatek,
Honestly, it's hard to give you an answer. There are so many options to tweak your light. The easiest would be to say, your water parameter's are off. :-)))
But seriously, we need to know more about your light settings. What is your light schedule? in which output mod you have set it, and so on.
You have asked the same question over in reefcentral, didn't you get any answer?
I run my Mitras 6100 since three years now and I'm very satisfied even though I had some coloring problems but never had grow issues.
I found out later that my coloring issues related to that I unintentional sett red, orange, yellow, and green levels too high. So it was out of balance with blue, white and hyper violet.
Long story short: there's so many settings you can do right and many to screw.
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Monty,
Water parameter are ok, was ok before change to mitras.
I can show you my project( I attache zip file)7290
I set high output and now i have acclimatization from 50% to 80%
Hi kwiatek,
You have asked the same question over in reefcentral, didn't you get any answer?
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The best answer was change to HQI+T5 or T5 only
Matthias
03.04.2015, 13:09
before you had about 350W of light power, you replaced it with 190W Mitras
so you really need the max. light output Mitras is anle to deliver
i have acclimatization from 50% to 80%
what does that mean? you are at the moment somewhere between 50% and 80% ? why?
I guess you just need MORE light
to achieve this:
- keep dimming phase short (maybe 30 minutes)
- have all white and blue and HV channels at max. most of the day
- other channels as you like
- energy options: high output, 100%
- maybe extend illumination duration over the day
switch off acclimation
Matthias
03.04.2015, 13:16
You have asked the same question over in reefcentral, didn't you get any answer?
The best answer was change to HQI+T5 or T5 only
I didn't see that thread. Maybe you better ask questions relating our products in our sub-forum: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=527
We can't scan all forums in order to find open support cases. Thank you.
Hi,
Matthias was faster than I was, so I can just come in to line with him.
I have meant that particular forum/thread.
I figured out by my mistakes that LEDs are all about how you set them since we have 9 channels to play with.
And furthermore, to mimic an previous light with LEDs looking at Watt, PAR, Lumen is foolish.
I by my self think know it would be the best to set LEDs with a spectrometer, but this devices are not under 1000€.
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just some proof...
One year difference
72917292
Can you show me your projects ?
Have you another T5 tubes
Here is my project: 7297
No, I have no additional lighting.
cześć
Thx
there is problem
when you set max output you have 12k and it's tooo yellow !
Maybe coral grow but very slowly :-(
This is simply not true.
Max output has nothing to do with color temperature.
And even with 6k you will have nice coral growth but the color will be different from what we like to see.
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That is true
But 12k MH is different 12k LED, led is to much yellow
That same is in 14k
So if it looks to yellow to your eye, why do you don't set the particular channel(s) lower and the blue and whites higher?
With the lightcomposer I tried to set something what now mimics ATI's Purple Plus and Coral Plus cobo, just by plotting the light spectra in the composer.
It would be a charm to imitate any MH or T5 up to 90% if not more with an spectrometer on hand, but even so with a bit effort we can do so with try and trail in the composer.
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Matthias
04.04.2015, 09:06
I guess we talk about 2 different "max output"
I was talking about the "energy options": set everything there to maximum (high output, 100%, 65°C, fans 100%)! more power!
1. in the light composer you set every light channel to the maximum in the first step
2. then reduce the light channels you dislike and which are not so important for the coral growth - e.g. yellow, green, maybe reduce the warm white (4400K) and the normal red a little - leave the rest at max.
you should not reduce the LED channles which are important for the photosyntesis - like all blue, hyperviolet, cool white and hyperred!
Thx
I will try, and give answer
monkeyboy
23.10.2015, 00:32
Sorry to hijack this old thread but what is the difference between red and hyperred ?
Matthias is saying hypered is essential for photosynthesis but in a recent thread I was told not to use any red due to nuisance algae ?
Thanks
Matthias
23.10.2015, 06:38
the difference is the wavelength
but in a recent thread I was told not to use any red due to nuisance algae ?
there are a lot of different opinions about algaes and the spectrum
but keep one thing in mind: plants, algaes and (most) zooxanthella are doing photosynthesis through the several types of chlorophil, carotinoid and others
monkeyboy
23.10.2015, 09:19
I understand they are different wavelengths, that's stating the obvious. Maybe I should have elaboarated on the question
Does hyperred penetrate deeper through the water. Do corals use hypered more than red. Do nuisance algaes use red more than hyperred.
I have brown algae on my sand bed. It's not a slime, neither a diatom as the tank is a year old. It's hard to distinguish what it is.
I'm wondering what part of my light run is fuelling the bloom ?
Matthias
23.10.2015, 17:23
in the light composer you can switch on "chlorophyl A+ B" and "violaxantin"
this gives you an idea what part of the spectrum is important for photosynthesis
thumb rule:
all HV, blue and white + hyperred near to 100%, the others according to your taste
Interesting article on red light and stony corals: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/blog/red-light-negatively-affects-health-of-stony-coral
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