Meanwell ELN-60-48D LED Driver

[jonnybravo22]

Specs: http://www.powergatellc.com/pdfs/ELN-60.pdf
Alternate link: http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?products_id=630

Can one of the experts please give me some very basic connections needed to make this device interface with Profilux Plus II Ex? (This is a driver for do-it-yourself LED lighting systems).

I would like to have the ability to have my profilux control the intensity of an LED system i am building and appreciate your help.

This device has 1-10V dimming capability but I do not know how it would connect to the Profilux and what additional devices may be necessary if any. Thanks!

[GHL Support]

The only thing you need is a LBFAP that is connectet to an L-Port. Connect the 1-10 V Control from the meanwell there. Thats all you need form ProfiLux side. LED side would be harder i think.

[jonnybravo22]

thanks for the fast response. I'm not familiar with an LBFAP. Can you point me to a link / explain a bit more?

I am figuring out the LED side so I'm comfortable there.

Assume i have the meanwell 48V plugged directly into the wall outlet (AC / Mains). I can regulate 1-10 V by plugging directly into the profilux w/ this LBFAP?

[jonnybravo22]

or just telling me what LBFAP stands for would help. a google search didnt return anything i could make out in english. thanks.

[dr.dotti]

look there:

http://www.aquariumcomputer.com/System__E_/Products/Illumination_technics/Lamp_accessories/lamp_accessories.html

[jonnybravo22]

Superb. Thanks so much.

[camnbron]

The only thing you need is a LBFAP that is connectet to an L-Port. Connect the 1-10 V Control from the meanwell there. Thats all you need form ProfiLux side. LED side would be harder i think.
Really?
I thought it would have been better to use the EVG-AP-1F to also switch off the power supply to the Meanwell driver as well?

I'm intending on doing this same thing on my tank upgrade next year using around 12 of the same Meanwell drivers and 150ish 3w Cree Leds.

Martin:
I have a profilux plus II, and already have 2 L channels being used for my Tunze nanos (that I'd like to replace with Vortechs if they can be controlled by Profilux). If I was to get the ex upgrade for the purpose of obtaining extra L channels, would I be able to control multiple (3) Meanwell drivers off each channel or does the 10v Control line have a limitation?

Sorry about the side tracking of your topic jonnybravo22, just thought it might be a good idea to keep Meanwell driver stuff in one topic since theres a bunch of us out there looking at doing the same thing :)

My intention is to construct 3 independant LED light modules that can be daisy chained off one another.

[jonnybravo22]

no problem at all -- since you're here i may ask you some questions! i'll pm for now.

[camnbron]

Hi again Martin,
what would be our better option out of the two? I only have experience with the EVG card because I use one for my dimmable Osram T5 ballasts. Hence my above post.
The LBFAP appears to be more simple although I cannot find any information on it in the manual section of the website, so am basing that on the little picture in the link provided.

[GHL Support]

If you already got an EVG-AP 2F but only connected one ballast you are free to use the second 1-10 V output for your LED driver. Thats the easy way.
I am unfamiliar with the meanwell driver if it needs a cut off or not. In case it needs a cut off, connect the power line of the meanwell driver also to the EVG-AP 2F. In case you only have a EVG-AP 1F i would replace it to an EVG-AP 2F for the T5 ballast and the LED driver.

@camnbron

yes, 1-10 Volt line are limited at 10 with ProfiLux 2 series. 8 for light controlling and 2 for things like pump controlling or fan controlling.

[camnbron]

Thanks for that.
I too am not sure that the meanwell LED driver really needs a cut off. Based on the information I have read on the Nanoreef forum, it isn't, but I will post up something there seeking confirmation.
I guess in my scenario, I already have an EVG-AP 2F that will become redundant when I change from T5's to LED's so I should either utilise that card or find somebody else with a Profilux system in New Zealand that might be interested in buying my EVG card, Ballasts and individual reflectors.



yes, 1-10 Volt line are limited at 10 with ProfiLux 2 series. 8 for light controlling and 2 for things like pump controlling or fan controlling.

Just to clarify my intended setup:
I am having 12 dimmable LED drivers. I am intending on using only 4 channels on the profilux to control these. So would need each of the 4 L channels to control 3 meanwell LED drivers.
Can each of the L channels do this?

[camnbron]

Ok this is the reply I got on the nano reef forum regarding the 2 different cards:


Either or. At 0v, there is no ooutput from the driver. No need for a relay at that point. The relay might be nice to shut the AC side of the driver off when not used just to save a little power usage. It's not required though to get full range of usage.

The person who replied is the resident LED guru on that forum. So I am happy with that part and will proceed with using the LBFAP card based on the understanding that 2 L channels (L1,L2) can be connected to it.

All I need to know now is the answer to the above question about any limitation that each L channel might have on the number of devices it controls. In this case the intention is for that to be 3 meanwell LED drivers per channel (L3,L4,L5,L6) in addition to one stream (hopefully vortech MP40!?!?) on each of the other 2 channels (L1,L2)

[Matthias]

you can set the output min voltage (is output at 1%): standard = 1V
and the max voltage (output at 100%): standard = 10V

independent form these settings the output will always be 0V at 0% -> in your case the LED drivers will shut at 0%, no extra shut off neccessary.

[Matthias]

All I need to know now is the answer to the above question about any limitation that each L channel might have on the number of devices it controls. In this case the intention is for that to be 3 meanwell LED drivers per channel (L3,L4,L5,L6) in addition to one stream (hopefully vortech MP40!?!?) on each of the other 2 channels (L1,L2)

but I don't understand this question

each channel controls one device, of course you can connect several devices to one channel in parallel, they will do the same

[camnbron]

Sorry for the confusion Matthias.
I'm not very good at describing things, but I believe you have answered my question anyway lol. Here is another way of describing what I am intending on doing:

This is a more correct description:
L1 = 1 x Stream (hopefully vortech)
L2 = 1 x Stream (hopefully vortech)
L3 = 3 x Meanwell LED Drivers (in parallel) each powering 13 3w White Cree LED's
L4 = 3 x Meanwell LED Drivers (in parallel) each powering 13 3w Royal blue Cree LED's
L5 = 3 x Meanwell LED Drivers (in parallel) each powering 13 3w White Cree LED's
L6 = 3 x Meanwell LED Drivers (in parallel) each powering 13 3w Royal blue Cree LED's
There will be 3 modules or panels of LEDs each with 4 Meanwell LED Drivers controlled by each of the L ports in parallel

The L- ports will be connected to the meanwell drivers via 2 LBF-AP control boards

I was just concerned that the number of devices I am going to be controlling off the L ports might be too much.

[jonnybravo22]

two questions

1) does the LB-FAP box close?? It looks like it is a box and in the pictures it is open, but perhaps it stays open like that all the time? reason i'm asking is that if the green board the chip is on is always exposed i would want to put that into a project box to hide it.

2) i have been assuming that with the LB-FAP i will be able to have full control over the LEDS in the same way people have used it for commercial LED systems. It will allow you do use the cloud settings and variable illumination settings in the profilux right? Can you confirm? thank you!

[Matthias]

camnbron,

this configuration makes sense. You have only to keep in mind that you don't draw more than approx. 10mA from one 1-10V-interface (check the datasheet of the LED-driver).

jonny,
the box comes with a cover and all illumination control features can be used

[Luisagos]

These drivers run at 3.3ma at 10v.
3 of them should be the limit per channel.

[nallaakk]

I think it should work but running 3 drivers in parallel would be bit risky... Ask Evil66 I am sure he be able to assist you.... Have you ever consider buying 2 plug bars? Try this as it may give you much better control over your unit?

If nothing works then you could always keep your 6 Meanwell drivers on one timer for Royal Blue and other 6 drivers for white LEDs with timer to come ON and switch OFF at set time. Now you could incorporate ProfiLux simulation sticks to do all those stormy scene etc...

Let us know how you get along...

Good luck..

[camnbron]

Thanks for that Luisagos saved me finding it :)

Hi nallaak.
I think you might having the 1-10v dimming control signal to the Meanwell Driver confused with the output from the Meanwell Driver to the actual LED's, but I'll still go and query the guru!
I know there is a risk when running LED's in parallel and one fails that has been raised in topic discussions on the Nano-reef forum
Running them off the L-ports should give me better control than using another power bar, I have this at the moment with 4 x 54w T5 tubes using dimmable osram powertronic ballasts and found this to be really good for simulating sunrise and sunset.

The 13 LED's for each driver will be wired in series and I am intending on having a 1:1 mix of Cree XR-E LED's on each of the panels like this:

O B W B W B W O
B W B W B W B W
W B W B W B W B
B W B W B W B W
W B W B W B W B
B W B W B W B W
O B W B W B W O = 52 LED's, O denotes vacant position, no LED present
and utilising the Profilux L-ports to dim them up and down as required - General lighting, storms, night lighting etc,.
I think the panels will be situated over some formations, leaving a couple of dark spots intentionally

But that's the plan anyway!

[nallaakk]

From my understanding, you were asking if you could combine 6 ELN-48-60D for white and same for the Royal blue. Anyways, I think 13 LEDs per driver would be a little bit on max side. I know they are rated little bit higher than 48Volt and go up to 52Volt but still they will get very warm since you be pushing the limits with your powerful LEDs. I would say reduce the number of LEDs to 12 per ELN-48-60D LED driver.

[Luisagos]

LEDs are current devices.

At 48 v with 13 LEDS, your at 3.69 v per LED.

Running at 10v as the dimming voltages, your running at 1.25a.
The specs for the LED are 3.6v at 1000ma.

LEDs are the ones running on the high side, not the drivers.

You need set current at 10v to 1a, just open the driver casing and turn the current pot till you get 1000ma at 10v dimming.

[nallaakk]

LEDs are current devices.

At 48 v with 13 LEDS, your at 3.69 v per LED.

Running at 10v as the dimming voltages, your running at 1.25a.
The specs for the LED are 3.6v at 1000ma.

LEDs are the ones running on the high side, not the drivers.

You need set current at 10v to 1a, just open the driver casing and turn the current pot till you get 1000ma at 10v dimming.

I am speaking from experience while using these ELN-48-60D LED drivers with XR-E LEDs. I know they are set at max which is around 1.2Amp and you can tone these drivers and bring down to just under 1000mA. By doing this you could increase the number of LEDs but they do create extra burden on the driver itself hence causing the driver to warm up much more than when running them with 12 LEDs, please remember I am not talking about the LEDs but the LED driver itself.

[Luisagos]

I am speaking from experience while using these ELN-48-60D LED drivers with XR-E LEDs. I know they are set at max which is around 1.2Amp and you can tone these drivers and bring down to just under 1000mA. By doing this you could increase the number of LEDs but they do create extra burden on the driver itself hence causing the driver to warm up much more than when running them with 12 LEDs, please remember I am not talking about the LEDs but the LED driver itself.

I understood you well. Just because something runs warmer not nessary means is out of spec.

These drivers are design to put out 48v at 1.25ma. By lowering the current to 1 amp, your running below the max recommanded settings, which is a good thing, for the driver and the LEDs.

What dicates the max LED count on one string is what the LED voltage is design to work at, in this case its 3.6v.

This driver puts out 48v, if you 48/13 = 3.69 v, you well within the LED specs.

Also ohmns laws says, series circuits, the amount of current is the same through any component in the circuit.

[dipan]

LEDs are current devices.

At 48 v with 13 LEDS, your at 3.69 v per LED.

Running at 10v as the dimming voltages, your running at 1.25a.
The specs for the LED are 3.6v at 1000ma.

LEDs are the ones running on the high side, not the drivers.

You need set current at 10v to 1a, just open the driver casing and turn the current pot till you get 1000ma at 10v dimming.

Luis, Cree's Data Sheet for the XR-E puts forward voltage at 3.7V @ 1000mA. Where do you get the 3.6V number from?

On another note, if I were to build an LED array, I would seriously consider using the newer Cree XP-G. At 1000mA this LED can pruduce 105 lumens per watt and is brighter and more efficient than the XR-E. It is also rated at a forward voltage of 3.3V @ 1000mA. So, by the specs at least, you could run 14 in series off a single Meanwell ELN-60-48-D at 1000mA (46.2V) ...

[g8gxp]

so assuming i have 9 of these drivers that i need to power, how many LFB-AP's would i need? If i used the EVG-AP2F instead how many of these would I need?

Thanks,

[Monty]

Hi Folks,
I’m on the same path now. I’m about to build a light setup with 144 HB LED driven with 12 MW ELN-60-48D Drivers (12 LEDs each). My plan for now is to put 5 of them with Cool Whit’s on one dimming channel, 5 with Royal Blue on a second channel and two, one with Cool White and one with Royal Blue, on a third channel. The third channel should also be a Moonlight in nighttime. The issue is that you cannot put more than 3 ELN drivers on one channel. I hope to find a solution this weekend. My cousin is an electronic technician and we will sit down to put something together to amplify the dimming signal. We already talked on the phone about my problem, and he told me that it will be pretty simple to put something together that will support more than just 3 drivers by using a small additional stabilized power source and having an stabilized output to ensure not to overdrive the dimming channel to the ELN driver and also not having a fluctuation in light intensity. GHL has already a similar device, the PropellerControl, but it’s not fitting our needs. The current is ok but the voltage is 0-12V and then there is a rapid jump from 0-3V to fit the needs of fans in the starting period. Got this info from Martin GHL.
So as soon as I get all working I will post my results and the circuit solution if you would like to try it!!

Some more details about my setup:
• 950L (250g) tank 150x80x80 cm (59x31x31 inch), SPS mainly, some fish
• PL3 controller - 3 channels lighting, 3 channels Tunze pumps
• 144 Cree XP-G LEDs - 72 Cool White, 72 Royal Blue, no optics
• 12 ELN-60-48D drivers
• I’ll use an EVG-AP-2F for the two main channels to cutoff the drivers from the power after lighting period.
• I’ll use an EVG-AP-1F for the one channel which should also be used as Moonlight, to cutoff the driver from the power after lighting period.
• 3 contactors, one on each 220V outlet of the EVG-AP’s to protect the EVG-AP relays. There will be definitely a to high switching current with 5 drivers on the relay, that why the contactors.
• 3 “amplifiers” (developed by my cousin and me)(hopefully!) on each dimming channel coming out of the EVG-AP’s

Thanks
Monty

[Monty]

Hi g8gxp,
If you don’t want to bother with “amplifying” the dimming channel, you have to count this way: One channel is 10mA each, one driver sucks 3,3mA. 3 drivers have 9.9mA so you can put just 3 drivers on one channel. By 9 drivers you need 3 channels. You can hookup more than just 3 drivers on one LFB-AP, but you are limited to the 10mA on the channel. If I assume that you have 3 dimming channels free on your PL than you need 3 LFB-AP and at least one YL2. If you like the option, which is that the drivers would be cut off from the power source when not in use, you need one EVG-AP-2F end one EVG-AP-1F and no YL2, because the EVG-AP-2F has already the channel split inbuilt, but if you want to put the EVG-AP-1F or the third LFB-AP on an L plug of the PL where already one channel is used, then you need one more YL2.

If I’m not right, just give me a slap.;)
Thanks
Monty

[dipan]

Hi Folks,
I’m on the same path now. I’m about to build a light setup with 144 HB LED driven with 12 MW ELN-60-48D Drivers (12 LEDs each). My plan for now is to put 5 of them with Cool Whit’s on one dimming channel, 5 with Royal Blue on a second channel and two, one with Cool White and one with Royal Blue, on a third channel. The third channel should also be a Moonlight in nighttime. The issue is that you cannot put more than 3 ELN drivers on one channel. I hope to find a solution this weekend. My cousin is an electronic technician and we will sit down to put something together to amplify the dimming signal. We already talked on the phone about my problem, and he told me that it will be pretty simple to put something together that will support more than just 3 drivers by using a small additional stabilized power source and having an stabilized output to ensure not to overdrive the dimming channel to the ELN driver and also not having a fluctuation in light intensity. GHL has already a similar device, the PropellerControl, but it’s not fitting our needs. The current is ok but the voltage is 0-12V and then there is a rapid jump from 0-3V to fit the needs of fans in the starting period. Got this info from Martin GHL.
So as soon as I get all working I will post my results and the circuit solution if you would like to try it!!

Some more details about my setup:
• 950L (250g) tank 150x80x80 cm (59x31x31 inch), SPS mainly, some fish
• PL3 controller - 3 channels lighting, 3 channels Tunze pumps
• 144 Cree XP-G LEDs - 72 Cool White, 72 Royal Blue, no optics
• 12 ELN-60-48D drivers
• I’ll use an EVG-AP-2F for the two main channels to cutoff the drivers from the power after lighting period.
• I’ll use an EVG-AP-1F for the one channel which should also be used as Moonlight, to cutoff the driver from the power after lighting period.
• 3 contactors, one on each 220V outlet of the EVG-AP’s to protect the EVG-AP relays. There will be definitely a to high switching current with 5 drivers on the relay, that why the contactors.
• 3 “amplifiers” (developed by my cousin and me)(hopefully!) on each dimming channel coming out of the EVG-AP’s

Thanks
Monty


Hi g8gxp,
If you don’t want to bother with “amplifying” the dimming channel, you have to count this way: One channel is 10mA each, one driver sucks 3,3mA. 3 drivers have 9.9mA so you can put just 3 drivers on one channel. By 9 drivers you need 3 channels. You can hookup more than just 3 drivers on one LFB-AP, but you are limited to the 10mA on the channel. If I assume that you have 3 dimming channels free on your PL than you need 3 LFB-AP and at least one YL2. If you like the option, which is that the drivers would be cut off from the power source when not in use, you need one EVG-AP-2F end one EVG-AP-1F and no YL2, because the EVG-AP-2F has already the channel split inbuilt, but if you want to put the EVG-AP-1F or the third LFB-AP on an L plug of the PL where already one channel is used, then you need one more YL2.

If I’m not right, just give me a slap.;)
Thanks
Monty

I just want to chime in and say that I am also building a large LED array and need support for more dimming power, one way or another, or I will have to use an large number of EVG-AP-2F's, probably with an expansion box. I'll be using about 32 Meanwell drivers between main and frag tanks. An expansion box will fit 5 EVG-AP-2F's by my figuring, capable of driving 30 Meanwell's on 10 channels. The other two I can probably run via another EVG-AP-2F in the PIIIex. Will the P3 support this many of these cards?

Monty, in order to simplify my setup, I'd be extremely interested in anything you come up with. I can solder and stuff, but have no good practical electrical experience. Thanks for your post!

[dipan]

Anyone? Team Profilux?

[Monty]

Hi dipan,

I’m still working on it. I had not much time last days. I would like to test everything before I post something what could possibly damage someone’s equipment. I’m now in the phase to optically divide the circuits so, that the PL side is protected against failure in the driver controlling circuit.

Thanks Monty

[g8gxp]

Does anyone know how to connect their meanwell driver to the EVG-AP2? Not sure how these connect. Do i just connect the Dimming leads to the EVG-AP2 card? or do i need to connect it to a power source first?

[jdrabek]

the dimming lines from the meanwell, white(-) and blue(+), plug into x104 on the evg-ap2 and the power line from the meanwell plug into x103.
Did you get the instructions with the evg-ap2.

If you plug the power lines from the driver into the evg then you will be able to make sure that the lights are completely off. I dont think that with the meanwell that you HAVE to plug the power lines into the evg, but why wouldnt you?

[g8gxp]

the dimming lines from the meanwell, white(-) and blue(+), plug into x104 on the evg-ap2 and the power line from the meanwell plug into x103.
Did you get the instructions with the evg-ap2.

If you plug the power lines from the driver into the evg then you will be able to make sure that the lights are completely off. I dont think that with the meanwell that you HAVE to plug the power lines into the evg, but why wouldnt you?

I just want to make sure i don't break anything.

so on the AC IN side, i just connect it to the house main power.
On the DC OUT side i connect the red/black to x103 and the white/blue to x104.

Is this correct?

Thanks!

[jdrabek]

The AC from the driver gets plugged into x102(ballast 1) or x103(ballast 2) depending on if you have 1 or 2 drivers you are using. Then you need to supply power to the board through connection x101 which provides power to your 1 or 2 drivers.

The DC OUT, red and black, from the driver gets fed to whatever you are driving. In my case they are the positive and negative leads to my LEDS.

The white and blue get fed into x104 which are the dimming control lines. Connection
x104 has four slots. One set for ballast 1 and one set for ballast 2. From left to right, with x104 being the left side the connections go +,-,+,-. The first 2 from the left are for ballast 1.

If you look on the forum I am sure you can find an image of the board and a wiring schematic. I have seen one or two of them on here. You should also be able to get the directions from GHL site.

Hopefully I am not making it worse for you.

[Crazy35111]

Here is a link to that diagram...I am also doing a build for my 75g tank with 72 LEDS 6 Meanwell 60-48-d drivers, and struggling a bit.http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=15816285
http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/alphasierra99/EVGFinalSetup.jpg

[jdrabek]

I new someone would have an image of it.

I just tested my first set of LED's using this board and a meanwell driver. My first one is blue only LED's, ran out of money, and the second one will be whites only. This will be a long strip fixture with alternating whites and blues and go in the middle of my 6 bulb T5 set-up. I am having my heatsink cut down for this, but I did wire up and test the blues a few minutes ago. Everything seems to check out and I was able to adjust the current to what I wanted to drive the blues at. I was also able to ramp the blues up and down using the profilux, but I have not figured out the lighting control for this fixture yet in the software. I will do some reading tonight.

[jdrabek]

Can anyone elaborate on the manual dimming in the controller for LED's? When in manual mode, which is based on %, my lights dont even come on until I hit 10%. Is this 10% of 1-10 volts or should I be getting lighting as low as 1%? The other thing I noticed was that for my 12 blues running at .7 volts, at 100% I am only getting 40 volts from the driver. Shouldnt this be around 48 volts? Am I actually getting 100% of what the lights can do at this current setting?

[camnbron]

Hi jdrabek,
Good to see more people having a go. My LED's finally arrived as have my drivers. Now all I need is a quite time at work to do my homie! Great to see others doing the same type of thing as me. :)
It would be fairly easy to graph the driver output versus the profilux L port output - just hook up a multimeter in plave of the LED's and measure the voltage at controlled steps - 0%, 10%, 20% 30%, etc,.

I haven't got to that point yet - I'm still in the "how the heck do I wire these tiny LEDs on these 10mm Squares?!?!" phase
Have you calibrated your driver? (adjust the pot to match the total voltage - number of LED's in series x LED voltage and the other pot to match the max current - 1000mA).
Also, what do you mean by "other thing I noticed was that for my 12 blues running at .7 volts, at 100% I am only getting 40 volts from the driver"

[jdrabek]

Actually I meant to say .7 amps. I am not driving the blues at max current because of others recommendations.

[g8gxp]

from what i understand, the optimal ratings listed for the meanwells assumes a 350mA load. You can certainly drive it to 1A, but from the builds that i have run across, almost nobody is driving at 1A. The majority are driving at less than 750 and the people who have large arrays with optics are driving them at less than 500, because they have seen coral bleaching at higher intensity levels.

[jdrabek]

The threads that I have seen most are driving the blues at 700mA and the whites at or near 1A. If you notice bleaching you can either de-rate the lamps even more or just adjust your dimming down.

I had one setting wrong in the Profilux. I had the voltage a 0-10 instead of just a 1-10. That fixed the intial dimming problem. I then verified that I am getting 10 volts on the dimming circuit at 100% so that is good. I am getting ready to double check my driver and make sure the voltage pot is turned up all the way and take me reading again. I am not too concerened becuase the lights are waaaaaay bright.

[camnbron]

When you are adjusting the pots inside the driver:
SVR1 = Output voltage adjustment
SVR2 = Output current adjustment
that is as shown on
meanwell.com specsheet for ELN-60 (http://www.meanwell.com/search/eln-60/ELN-60-spec.pdf)
If running the LED's in series add the total foward voltage of each LED in the string to get to the required output voltage eg 13 x 3.5 = 45.5v

[jdrabek]

After talking with some guys about SVR1, it does not really do much for the number of LED's in my string. I took measurements with it turned all the way up and down and you can not see a difference.

My voltage looks to be okay with how much I am driving the LED's. I must have not a good reading of the current in the circuit and probably under driving them more than I thought.

I still only get 9.7 volts out of the dimming lines though at 100%. I am not sure why I am not getting 10 volts.

I am not real concerned though because the lights are really bright at the settings they are at.

[g8gxp]

Does anybody know what the evg-ap abbreviations are? What are PE, N, and L?

[Matthias]

Protecting Earth
Neutral
Live

[g8gxp]

How does this correspond to the white, black, and green wires from a 3 prong power cord

[Crazy35111]

Fro what I have figured out.

Protecting Earth=Green
Neutral=White or Black
Live=White or black

Shouldnt matter which is live and and neutral, they both make the loop

[dipan]

Monty ... have you had any luck? I now have all the LED's I need to build the LED modules. Unfortunately I'll need to hook up 30+ Meanwell drivers. I really need to figure out a way to get more of them per dimming channel. There has got to be a solution to attach more than 3 Meanwells per dimming channel.

Any suggestions Matthias?

[Blahenazo]

I'm also looking into led's.
but i bought a dali module to drive my T5 ballasts.
For the leds => steering the drivers is what is holding me back.

But now I have to choose between buying T5 dali ballasts or go the led way.
led drivers + dali = perfect match
if you think about it :
- Led fixtures normal need great numbers of drivers, dali can drive them all
- Dali can reduce the cable clutter.
- Dali will reduce the need for 0-10v outputs on my profilux :)

I understand why more company's make more dali drivers (eldo led makes them)

[Monty]

Hi Blahenazo,

Dali is nice and I would go this way, but finally you will find out that you will use twice so much drivers and tree times more money. There is no Dali driver out there with 48V so that you can drive 12-16 LEDs on one string.

Jan

[Blahenazo]

Did you check the eldo power drive 180W ?

Maybe I'm missing something but it says 180 W on 4 channels ( in the datasheet it doesn't say if the channels are limited I guess so, I find no info per channel :(
but hey If they are you can still have 4 chains even if it would be 10 chains on 1 device and since it's Dali => more channels more flexibility. ( Dali is limited to 128 ? :)
ok => the profilux to 32 channels

hmmz idd it doesn't add up. meanwell can run them @ 48 V this driver only has 32 output I guess.

[dipan]

That a neat driver. I hadn't seen it before. Thanks. But I can see two potential problems. They specify all sorts of nonsense on a two page spec sheet but fail to mention output voltage range. Seems to me this would be an important spec to know.

Second, it requires a DC power supply. I had hoped to simplify by running of main AC.

[dipan]

Bumping this thread to see if anyone has successfully figured out a way to connect more than 3 Meanwell drivers per dimming channel on a P3.

[frank40]

i am jumping on the LED bandwagon and building a small for my fuge/frag part of my sump. i am using 12 Cree x series leds with a meanwell driver hooked up to a EVG board.

My question is when you hook up the meanwell AC to the Evg board, do you plug the AC from the Evg to a controllable socket or just a standard AC wall socket?

[camnbron]

If you have the EVG board that has the relays on it and are using that to connect to the meanwell dimmable drivers, then you plug the AC lead from the EVG board into a standard AC wall socket.

[Blahenazo]

well,

I check back on the eldo drivers and it seems they made new ones (release june-july) I'm no expert but dali, Ac, 48 V even 60 V output => seems to be promissing.

[camnbron]

Bumping this thread to see if anyone has successfully figured out a way to connect more than 3 Meanwell drivers per dimming channel on a P3.

A solution to this problem has been found by our collegues on the reef central forum.
Osram 1-10v signal amplifier (http://www.osram.cz/_global/pdf/Professional/ECG_&_LMS/LMS_instructions/DIM_SA_e.pdf)
this will boost the maximum from 10mA as specified earlier in this topic to 100mA, while drawing only 1.5mA
so theoretically you could have 4 Osram signal amplifiers on each L port with each of those having 30 meanwell drivers, so 120 meanwell drivers per L port and if each meanwell driver has 13 Cree XPG LEDs in series thats 1560 XPG LEDs controlled by one Profilux L port.

[Blahenazo]

Great find.

While checking out the device on the osram site.
I found out they also have DALI CON 1-10v LI => So dali to 0-10V. (for the ones like me who already have dali ) but find dali drivers to expensive/not guite there yet.

Only the price :
*OUCH*
on elktroradar.de DIMSA 117 €
DALI CON 147 €


guess I will stick to the eldo drivers. ( at least think about them until I start building my led array's ;)

[Monty]

Hi all,

I was going this road first and posted it on RC. Sorry I didn’t do it first here:rolleyes:, but that LED thread there is more alive. Look it up from here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1678127&page=135
First I tried to DIY an amplifier, but after experimenting and lose of some money I give it up and was looking for an off-shelf solution and the Osram DIM SA is it.

By the way you can get it somewhere around 70E

[neonebula2001]

CAn we use this in the US?

[Monty]

Hi, I have not being paying attention to the operating voltage while posting it at RC. All here in EU is running on 220V or is at least 220/110V capable. But on your question I was looking closer to the spec sheet of the amplifier and there is just the operating voltage of 220V mentioned.

If that is truth, than it will be ok to use a converter from 110 to 220V in line with the amplifier. The amplifier is just pulling 2W so I can’t realize problems by using a converter, only that it is an additional piece of equipment.

BTW in work (we are often at pleases with just 110V) we use such converters 24/7 and with >200W for PC and battery charger (battery’s >9000mAh) and other appliances and so far we had no problems. Just google the right one for the application you need.

[ken]

Can some help me? i wanna know if the PL-0644 ActiveL-Splitter can support X15 ELN-60-48 meanwell drivers. the splitter come with a power supply so i think it should support it.

ken

[Matthias]

Hi

the ActiveL-Splitter provides only power for Simu-lamps, but doesn't amplify the 1-10V signals