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monkeyboy
30.07.2015, 18:57
Hi. Could anyone mail me their light run for a 6100hv please.

I have a mixed reef and am not the greatest at playing with the light composer and getting the results I want

Thanks in advance

GazzMan
31.07.2015, 09:33
http://www.profiluxowners.com

monkeyboy
31.07.2015, 09:50
Thanks. I seen these in a previous thread. Only 1 is for the 6100. Was wondereng if there was anything else out there

Mark426
05.08.2015, 15:29
Thanks. I seen these in a previous thread. Only 1 is for the 6100. Was wondereng if there was anything else out there

Ask on reef central's mitras owners thread.

monkeyboy
20.10.2015, 22:52
Hi. These are screen shorts of my light channels.

Can someone tell me if I have to much, or not enough light, or wrong spectrum, or to long photoperiod.

I've been battling brown sand for about 5 months and can't seem to shift it. I'm putting it down to lighting now.
7830
7831
7832
7833

In order are 1 - blue, 2 - royal blue, 3 - cool white, 9 - hv. Don't use other channels apart from but of yellow and green.

Run at high output. 100%

Vinny
21.10.2015, 17:31
Those individual channel settings look good to me. One of the better indicators for too much or too little light is to closely watch how your corals are reacting to the change. I would recommend lowing your overall intensity down to 60% and observe any changes for a week or two.

diverdutch
21.10.2015, 18:31
if you have issues with algae or diatoms reduce your light length to max 8 hours from start to finish and reduce output to max 70% and reduce or set RED and GREEN channels to 0.
also not to shock corrals start with a light/water surface distance of 35-40 cm and monitor how things progress and fine tune amongst time

monkeyboy
21.10.2015, 21:30
Thanks for your replies.

The reason that I think light is fuelling my algae issue is that I have a 25ltr boyu that I use as qt. It has way higher po4 and no3 than my dt but the same sand stays white. No algae issue

The boyu is lit by an 11w PL blue/white flourescent. Same photo length as dt

I run triton method and my ICP water tests are good.

I don't use any red, just a bit of green. I will start adjusting as you recommend.

My lights are 220 at the moment. I have 2x6100hv over a 4x2x2.

Would light still penetrate ok at 350mm high with reduced % on output.

Vinny
22.10.2015, 16:04
250-300mm high is recommended. You can continued running on High Output mode, but lower the total output percentage.

monkeyboy
22.10.2015, 19:41
Where does it state recommended height is 250-300 ?

All I've ever read is the minimum height of 200.

Are there any guidelines for setting the lights up. Surely GHL must have done extensive testing on tanks

Without a par meter I've got no idea if I got them set up right.

I lost a lot heads on my Duncan and some heads on some acans over the last few months. Could they be getting burnt ?

Vinny
22.10.2015, 21:08
There is no one size fits all approach to recommended hanging distance.

Too many variables come into play which is why we recommended users to start at a lower output and slowly increase over time all while observing the reactions of your coral. PAR measurement is not the end all be all of solutions to getting the light setup properly. Starting at 100% High output is definitely capable of burning corals, especially if they needed more time to adjust to the new light.

monkeyboy
23.10.2015, 00:04
I did start off at 80% and slowly ramped up as I thought tank was not getting enough light from reading that some users where using 100% output.

I'm beginning to think otherwise now. I'm putting some of the events in my tank down to other variables now.

I'm slowly going to raise the height back up, lower percentage and decrease photoperiod.

when do you need to run at 100% then ?

Vinny
23.10.2015, 16:27
You don't have to run them at 100%. We have many users running them below the 100% max output.

It all depends on what kinds of corals are in the tank and where they are placed.

monkeyboy
07.11.2015, 18:48
Hi. Earlier in this thread diverdutch has said not to use any red or green to avoid nuisance algae but in another thread I have been told to run hyper red at 100% along with tv, blue, r blue.

Any thoughts ?

Mark426
07.11.2015, 20:13
Hi. Earlier in this thread diverdutch has said not to use any red or green to avoid nuisance algae but in another thread I have been told to run hyper red at 100% along with tv, blue, r blue.

Any thoughts ?

Whoever said run red at 100%, I couldn't disagree with more. I know of no one that runs their reds at more than 20-25% in a reef tank. General rule is whites at 50% of blues and the reds and greens at 25% or less of blues as a starting point.

monkeyboy
07.11.2015, 20:35
It was last reply by mathias on thread 'how to set mitras 6100hv started by kwiatek. 31.03.2015

Quote.

Thumb rule.

All Hv, blue, white + hyperred near 100% and others to your taste

Mark426
07.11.2015, 20:41
monkeyboy...check with reefcentral.com or other reef forums about running your reds at more than 20-25%. There is a thread on Mitras settings on reefcentral.com. You can look there and see what other successful reefers are doing. Also, here is a short research article on red light and stony corals: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/blog/red-light-negatively-affects-health-of-stony-coral

monkeyboy
11.01.2016, 20:25
Matthias. Can you elaborate on your post in the other thread that says to set hyper red at near 100% ?